Views: 94 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2019-08-19 Origin: Site
There are very few hand-made embroideryin the Yuan Dynasty. Taiwan has only one piece of work in the Palace Museum. It is still inherited from the Song Dynasty. Yuan people use a slightly thicker velvet to embroidery ,so the works were not as exquisite as Song’s.
The dyeing and weaving process of the Ming Dynasty began to develop in Xuande. Embroidery flowers began in the Gu’s Luxiang Garden in Shanghai during the Jiajing period, the family was famous for their embroidery skills. A woman called Han Ximeng, Gu Mingshi’s second daughter-in-law, was proficient in six kinds of embroidery. She embroidered paintings and calligraphy of ancient and modern celebrities, and she has an extraordinary understanding on fabric and color matching. The landscape, characters and birds she embroidered were all exquisite. This is the Gu embroidery we know at present.
The needle method of Gu embroidery mainly inherited from the most complete method of Song Dynasty, and its needle method varies more frequently, thus it was described as the great achiever in needle method. The threads were thin as hair, the stitches are flat, and the variety of color kinds used in Gu embroidery greatly exceed Song embroidery. At that time, the embroidery and painting are used together to strive for a realistic original. Depending on the pattern, different materials such as real grass, Siamese fighting tail hair, thin gold and even hair can be embroidered.
The embroidered flowers in the Qing Dynasty were mostly used by the court. Most of them were drawn by the painters of the Ruyi Museum in the palace. After approval, they were sent to the three weaving workshops under the jurisdiction of Jiangnan Weaving , the workers there would imitate products according to the pattern. The products are neat and beautiful. In addition to the royal embroidered flower, there have been many local embroiders in the folk, such as Lu embroidery, Yue embroidery, Xiang embroidery, Beijing embroidery, Su embroidery, Shu embroidery, etc., every folk embroidery was full of local characteristics. Su, Shu, Yue, and Xiang embroidery were later called "four famous embroidery" by the public, among which Su embroidery is the most famous. During the heyday of Su embroidery, the genre flourished, and the use of embroidery was popularized in daily life, thus resulting in various changes in the embroidery stitch method. Moreover, the embroidery was more elaborate, and the embroidery color matching was more ingenious. Most of the patterns are about festival, longevity, and auspicious Omen. Embroidery based on flowers and birds were deeply loved by people, and the famous embroidery specialists come out one after another, such as Ding Pei and Shen Shou.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, many innovative works appeared because of west influence. During the reign of Emperor Guangxu, a woman named Shen Yunzhi was exquisite in embroidery and was well-known in Suzhou. On the 70th birthday of Cixi Queen Mother, she embroidered a work in the theme of “Eight Immortals”, and was given the words “Fu” and “Shou”, hence she changed her name to Shen Shou. Shen embroidery focused on realism. the needle method is varied and full of third dimension.
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